Question 1

What are base nutrients and why do cannabis plants need them?

Accepted Answer

Base nutrients are the foundation of any feeding programme — they supply the three primary macronutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), along with secondary nutrients like calcium, magnesium, and sulphur. Cannabis needs high nitrogen during vegetative growth for leafy development, then a shift toward higher phosphorus and potassium during flowering to support bud formation. Most nutrient brands offer a two- or three-part base system (Grow, Bloom, and sometimes a Micro or Veg formula) that you adjust week by week through the growth cycle. Popular base systems include General Hydroponics Flora Series, Canna Coco A+B, Advanced Nutrients pH Perfect, and BioBizz Fish·Mix + Bloom.

Question 2

Organic vs synthetic nutrients — which is better for cannabis?

Accepted Answer

Both work well; the choice depends on your medium, experience level, and goals. Synthetic nutrients deliver precise, immediately available nutrition — ideal for hydro, coco, and growers who want tight control over feeding schedules. They require accurate pH management and can cause salt build-up over time. Organic nutrients work through microbial activity in the soil — they're more forgiving, improve soil structure, and many growers report smoother smoke and improved flavour. The trade-off is slower uptake and less predictability in sterile media. Many advanced growers use a hybrid approach: a synthetic base with organic additives (like molasses, kelp, or mycorrhizae) for the best of both worlds.

Question 3

What pH should I be feeding cannabis plants?

Accepted Answer

pH is one of the most critical variables in cannabis growing. In soil, maintain a pH of 6.0–7.0, with 6.3–6.8 being the sweet spot. In coco coir or hydroponic systems, aim for 5.5–6.5 (optimal 5.8–6.2). Outside these ranges, nutrients become chemically unavailable — even if they're present in the solution, the plant can't absorb them. This is called nutrient lockout, and it's the most common cause of deficiency symptoms that beginners mistake for under-feeding. Always pH your water and nutrient solution after mixing, not before. A quality digital pH meter (Bluelab, Apera, or Milwaukee) is essential — cheap pH pens drift quickly and give unreliable readings.

Question 4

Do I need nutrient boosters and additives, or is a base nutrient enough?

Accepted Answer

For most home growers, a quality base nutrient is all you need. Additives and boosters are designed to push performance to the next level once you've mastered the basics. Useful additives include: CalMag supplements (especially in coco or RO water), root stimulants for the early seedling stage, enzyme products to break down dead root matter, and bloom boosters (high-PK products) during the final weeks of flowering. Avoid the trap of buying a full nutrient line when starting — more products means more complexity, more cost, and more potential for over-feeding. Master a simple two-part base first, then add one product at a time as needed.

Question 5

What is nutrient flushing and should I do it before harvest?

Accepted Answer

Flushing means watering with plain, pH'd water in the final days or weeks before harvest to clear residual mineral salts from the growing medium and plant tissue. Proponents argue it improves taste and smoothness of the final product. Critics — backed by some scientific research — contend it's largely a myth, as plants uptake very little during the final stage regardless. The debate is ongoing in the growing community. If you're using synthetic nutrients in soil or coco, a one- to two-week flush with plain water is a low-risk precaution. In organic soil grows, where nutrient availability is already buffered through microbial activity, flushing makes little difference. In hydroponic systems, a short flush (3–5 days) is generally recommended.

Question 6

How do I calculate EC (electrical conductivity) for my feeding schedule?

Accepted Answer

EC measures the total dissolved solids in your nutrient solution — it's an indirect measure of nutrient concentration. Cannabis generally thrives at 1.2–2.0 EC during vegetative growth and 1.6–2.4 EC during flowering, though this varies by strain, growth stage, and medium. Start low (0.8–1.2 EC) with seedlings and young plants, and ramp up gradually as the plant matures. Always measure EC after adding all nutrients and adjust accordingly. Your base water's EC also counts — if your tap water runs at 0.4 EC, that leaves less headroom before hitting the target range. In coco and hydro, monitoring runoff EC helps identify salt build-up before it becomes a problem.

Cannabis Nutrient Brands

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